Hapuna Beach

Saturday, February 9, 2013

TIA--This Is Asia: Vietnam, Korea, and Ginger Tea

Apparently, Leonardo DiCaprio said “TIA” a lot in Blood Diamond—a movie I never saw—but I stumbled on the acronym while reading reviews of various hotels located in Phu Quoc, Vietnam.  The reviewer acknowledged its more accepted interpretation—“This Is Africa”—but then added that it explicates an acceptance of the Asian cultures, circumstances, and situations as well and could just as fittingly mean “This Is Asia!”  For the here and now of this particular space, it expresses THIS IS ASIA! 

(TIA, by the way, is also a medical acronym but really not applicable to this post.)

Of the cities we visited in Vietnam, my favorite was Hoi An.  The light and color, the lines and shapes, the style and countenance—all mingle here to conjure an aesthetic jewel.



TIA!

The evening after our cooking class caper—yes, that event also occurred in this setting—Cindy and I booked appointments for massages at a spa down the road from our hotel.  Upon removing our flip-flops at the spa entrance, we were ushered to sit on a couch the waiting area.  Within minutes two girls began washing our feet in small plastic tubs full of water scented with herbs and lime slices, and another brought us cups of tea.  Now for me, tea—no matter the contents or purported flavor—generally tastes like hot water flavored with leaves or grass or twigs or some combination thereof, and milk, sugar, honey, and/or lemon fail to render it drinkable beyond a sip or two.  Except for that apple tea served in Turkey, I am no fan of tea whatsoever!  Supposing I would just hand off my cup to Cindy after she finished hers, I peered into the cup and took a whiff.  Several small strips of something floated below the surface, and the aroma wafting upwards was pleasantly spicy.  “Ginger tea,” Cindy said.  Curious, I took a sip; it was good—a gingery kick and just enough sweet.  I drank at all.  TIA!

After a 90-minute “Asian Style” massage—one of my top ten most amazing even if each of my calves had screaming moments—I nestled back down on a sofa in the waiting area and sipped on another cup of ginger tea while a girl figured up my bill.  The second cup tasted just as good as the first, if not more so.  In that moment, Ginger tea joined apple tea, and my tea list became two.

When I returned to my home in Seoul, Korea, I conducted an Internet search on how one—especially someone like me—could recreate ginger tea like the two I drank one evening in Hoi An.  I jotted down notes gathered from several Internet recipes and suggestions and convinced myself I could recognize fresh ginger in the produce section.  After all, TIA!

Now, winter in Seoul is bitter.  Whether snow falls or not, temperatures drop and then insist on dwelling in the nether regions for weeks.  Twenties and thirties signal a warming trend!  This winter has been especially brutal.  The cold arrived earlier and seems to plan on hanging out a while longer.  We have also had more snow fall this winter than the combined total of what fell during both of my first two winters here put together.  Honestly, though, I prefer the days the snow falls:  those days are actually warmer, so to speak because snow does not fall when the temperature is too cold, and, of course, there is something beautiful about falling snow. 



This week while grocery shopping, I remembered to look for fresh ginger.  I found it and I purchased it.  Today, after a night where temperatures dropped to single digits once again, I brewed some ginger tea.  The ginger part right I got right, but I still need to experiment with how to replicate the right amount of sweet.  I have time and place on my side in this endeavor, though, because I am here and . . . TIA!

Sunday, February 3, 2013

Vietnam--Winter Break, 2012: My Tale of Two Cities

Two cities dominated my childhood visualization of Vietnam:  Hanoi and Saigon—command centrals for opposing ideologies as well as their assemblages of might.  Officially, only Ha Noi remains today as a place name on a map.  Except as a district designation in the city it once named, Saigon is now Ho Chi Minh City (HCMC), although, perhaps another vestige of that earlier place name is that Tan Son Nhat, HCMC’s international airport, retains the airport code of SGN.

For my personal introduction to the land of Vietnam, Ha Noi became my welcome city.  Happily fascinated with even the entry procedures at the airport—visa on arrival, customs, my name on a placard in the hands of Thuy in the entry hall—Ha Noi had me fully captivated with my first foray into the neighborhood just outside our hotel.  Two weeks later I exited Vietnam from Ho Chi Minh City after spending three nights in that metropolis.  I could very easily gush, “I loved Ha Noi!”  Although the same such gush would never slide from my mouth regarding HCMC, I loved the chance to spend time there, and I totally did like it!

The political center of Vietnam, Ha Noi has a population of a little over 2,000,000 in its provincial districts; add in the rural districts, and the population rises to over 6,000,000.  The economic center of Vietnam, HCMC has a metropolitan population of over 9,000,000.  Still, the only places in Vietnam where I did not awaken in the morning to roosters crowing somewhere nearby would be while on the cruise boat in Ha Long Bay and while staying at the Victoria Resort and Spa near Mui Ne!

Lonely Planet describes Ha Noi as “perhaps Asia’s most graceful, atmospheric, and exotic capital city.”  There really is this beguiling pastiche of French timbre and Asian tempo, the medieval and the modern.  We arrived at our hotel in the Old Quarter not far from Hoan Kiem Lake just before midnight, so our transfer from the airport occurred in the dark and during a timeframe without traffic congestion.  Our guide Thuy, who knew we would be venturing out on our own in the morning because we had only scheduled a half-day tour with him for the afternoon, took the time to specifically instruct us on the art of crossing streets in Ha Noi as a pedestrian:  “Walk slowly.  Don’t change your speed and don’t stop!”  So, yeah!  You just keep walking at a slow pace.  All wheeled traffic—from bicycle to bus—will maneuver based on your established pace and trajectory.  Granted, we spent most of our time in the Old Quarter of Ha Noi, but I never saw a stop light in Ha Noi at all, not even when we drove out of it to Ha Long Bay or back to the airport for our flight to Da Nang.  Traffic flow unfolds as a work of art, momentum and design informed by all participants and in constant awareness of each other—a nerve-trembling but memorable dance!

Two thousand kilometers south of Ha Noi—by road, anyway—Ho Chi Minh City is situated on the Saigon River and just north of the Mekong Delta.  Asian urban convened around stretches of wide, elegant boulevards and tree-lined avenues, it is somehow reminiscent of Paris but recast for another continent, climate, and culture.  It thrums with energy and possibility, traffic and commerce.  Until we arrived in HCMC, I rarely spotted uniformed personnel of any ilk except for some police/highway patrol types on two different stretches of highway between cities.  HCMC had a lot more visible uniforms and a lot more signage of the propagandizing sort.  We walked through several different displays of enlarged photos and text celebrating specific historical events or else touting current government and military endeavors in behalf of the citizens. Except for maybe a total of two or three KFCs, I saw no American fast-food franchises anywhere in Vietnam.  In HCMC I spotted a sign advertising a Burger King, and I read that Starbucks would open its first shop in Vietnam in HCMC in about a month . . . which means it could now be open, even as I type . . . which makes me feel like YIKES! and a little sad.  Vietnam has its own array of coffee house chains, as well as a fine reputation for the quality of its coffee, and American fast food cannot compete with Vietnamese cuisine, be it fast or slow!

Like memorable cities anywhere on the planet, Ha Noi and Ho Chi Minh City each have a distinctive medley of traits, tone, and style.  Even so, each is also uniquely Vietnamese and an integral component of Vietnam itself.

Here is Ha Noi, the Old Quarter, Saturday, December 22, 2012:

View from our hotel room window.

 Cindy and I go for a cyclo ride.



Next is Ho Chi Minh City.  We arrived on Sunday, December 30, 2012, and stayed two nights, so we were there for New Year's Eve.  Then we left HCMC for a few nights to go to Mui Ne but returned again on Thursday, January 3, 2013, before leaving for Seoul very late Friday night.
View from the hotel room window in HCMC.


 Famous coffee place in HCMC where Cindy sampled the coffee and I . . .
had an iced chocolate--the best one I've ever had since the one in Tokyo!


This building was across the street from our hotel.  The platform is a helipad.


 This is Notre Dame in HCMC!